Pit Boss error codes: what ErH, ErP, ErL, NoP and Err mean

On the FB2, DX and Onyx Edition controllers, four codes cover the faults and one shared code names the part. ErH means the grill has overheated. ErP means the grill's own temperature probe wire is not making a connection. ErL means the grill did not complete its start-up cycle or will not stay lit. NoP means a bad connection at the meat probe port. Err with a component icon points at the auger, the igniter, the fan or the pellet supply.

Two displays look like errors and are not. Flashing dots mean the igniter is on. A flashing temperature means the grill is below 150°F and the fire is at risk of going out. A code that shows for a moment at plug-in, such as L01, L02, 126 or 128, is a programming code.

Pit Boss's FAQ sends owners to the manual for their exact model for the causes behind a code. So everything here comes from the manuals Pit Boss links on its own product pages for the 500 FB2, 700 FB2, 1150 DX and Classic 700 Onyx Edition, and they define each shared code the same way. Codes mentioned elsewhere, such as ErR, Er1 or Er2, are not defined in any of them, so they are left out rather than guessed at.

Pit Boss error codes and what to do first

Every check that involves the access panel or a connector starts with the grill unplugged and completely cool. That warning heads the troubleshooting section of each manual cited here.

The 500 FB2 and 700 FB2 manuals print the component faults as flashing icons without the Err prefix. The 1150 DX manual writes them as Err plus the icon. Meanings and fixes are the same.

ErP is the code most likely to be misread. Nothing in these manuals ties it to power. Power problems live under a different heading, no lights on the control board, and that list starts at the outlet: a working power source, a minimum 10 amp service, wire connections that are firm and dry, and then a fuse on the control board. I would not pull a control board on a hunch. Ask Customer Care to walk through it.

When the fire goes out

The warning comes before any code. A flashing temperature means the grill has dropped below 150°F. Some units have a relight feature that turns the igniter back on below 130°F, and the flashing dots return while it works. If the temperature keeps falling, or ErL appears, the sequence Pit Boss describes is shut down, cool, clear, prime, restart.

Shut down properly. Hold the power button for three seconds and let the shut-down cycle run: the auger stops feeding, the flame burns out, and the fan keeps running until the cycle is complete. Unplug only after the fan stops. Pit Boss prints this as an important warning in the manual. Then let the grill cool completely and unplug it before opening anything.

Clear the burn pot. The manual's fix for a blocked burn pot is to clear it of moist pellets and then follow the auger priming procedure. A pot full of unburned pellets is also the excess fuel that the ErH entry blames for overheating, so a restart on top of it trades a cold grill for a hot one.

Prime if the hopper ran dry. The FAQ says a grill that has run completely out of pellets must be primed so pellets reach the fire pot while the igniter is still hot. The manual's procedure: fill the hopper, press the power button to begin the start-up cycle, press and hold Prime until pellets drop from the auger into the burn pot, release it, then turn the grill off and let the cool-down finish before starting normally. Even after priming, the FAQ says the grill may need to be turned off and on again to restart the igniter.

Restart with the lid open. Listen for a torchy roar, and wait for the heavy white smoke to clear before closing the lid and setting a temperature. The FAQ's version is to start on Smoke with the lid open for 10 minutes, and never to lift the lid to regulate temperature on any setting other than Smoke. One more cause to rule out before blaming hardware: the FAQ warns that a P-setting raised too high can let the fire die completely while pellets keep feeding and pile up in the fire pot.

Pellet quality and moisture

Most of the codes above have a fuel cause behind them, and the pellet icon is defined as one outright. Pit Boss's condition check is simple. A good pellet snaps crisply and looks a little shiny on the outside. One that crumbles has taken on moisture and should be replaced. The FAQ ties damp pellets to two symptoms directly: a grill that will not reach temperature, and a flame that goes out.

Water in the hopper does worse. Pit Boss says pellets that get wet swell, disintegrate and then harden, which jams the auger and immobilizes it. The FAQ describes the jam as a solid mass of sawdust visible at the bottom of the hopper, and clearing it means removing the auger from the grill and cleaning it, with a referral to Customer Care if the grill still will not run. The manual says the same of high humidity, that pellets expand greatly, decompose and may jam the feed system, and adds that pellets that are too long can obstruct it.

Prevention is storage. The FAQ and the manual both say pellets belong in an airtight container, and the manual recommends clearing the hopper and auger before the grill sits unused for an extended period. The hopper lid protects pellets from a light rain, not a heavy one, and Pit Boss says to clean the grill after every 40 to 60 pounds of pellets, vacuuming ash from the fire pot and the bottom of the barrel. The same fuel faults drive pellet grill temperature swings, so a grill that wanders before it throws a code is sending the same message early.

When Pit Boss tells you to call Customer Care

The manuals draw the line the same way every time: check the connection, and if the part still does not work, call. Pit Boss says to contact Customer Care when:

• ErH is still displayed after the grill has cooled, been cleaned and restarted.
• The grill probe is broken behind an ErP, or the meat probe is damaged or the control board is faulty behind a NoP. Replacements come from Customer Care.
• The auger motor or the igniter does not operate after its connector has been disconnected and reconnected. The FAQ names the wires: purple and white for the igniter, red for the auger motor.
• A bent fan bracket or a bent fan housing keeps the fan from turning.
• The grill keeps running hot on the Smoke setting after the flame broiler slide and the lid habits have been checked.
• The power cord is damaged. The manual says it must be replaced by the manufacturer, its service agent or a similarly qualified person.
• The flame broiler stops draining grease to the bucket or shows holes that did not come from manufacturing.

Two things the manual reserves for Pit Boss's direction: the metal safety screen inside the hopper must not be removed unless Customer Care says so, and a faulty control board is a replacement part, not a repair. Have the model number, serial number and date of purchase ready. The manual's registration page asks for exactly those.

The two Pit Boss grills reviewed on this site, the 500 FB2 and the 700 FB2, carry the same code list in their manuals, and the 700 FB2 vs 500 FB2 comparison covers what actually differs between them.